Roofing

The jerkinhead roof’s unconventional shape has made it a favorite for bungalows and cottages, but its benefits go well beyond looks. By combining the strengths of both gable and hipped roofs, it stands up better to inclement weather than either of those styles alone.

The jerkinhead roof goes by many names, including clipped gable, half hip, English hip, snub gable, shreadhead, and bull nose, most of which attempt to describe its truncated shape. The basic form of the roof is similar to a gable roof, but the gable’s upper end points are shaped into small hips that slope back, leaving flattened, or “clipped,” gables. While it’s classified architecturally as a hipped roof with shortened ends, you can also imagine it as a gable roof with hipped ends.

The pitch of these roofs varies according to the architectural style of the house, but most are fairly low pitched. Tile, slate, and shingles are the most common materials for jerkinhead roofs, but they can be built from nearly any roofing material that suits the house’s style.

A Timeless Look With Broad Appeal

The origin of this roof style’s odd name is uncertain. According to one theory, it comes from a variation on the Scottish word “kirk,” meaning church, while another theory suggests it was named after the jerkin, a 16th-century jacket with cut-off sleeves.

It’s a time-honored style, used since at least the 15th century throughout central Europe, as well as in Denmark. It also appeared frequently on the timber framed Wealden Hall Houses built by medieval Yeoman farmers in South East England.

While it fell out of fashion for a time, it regained popularity in England in the late 18th and early 19th century for use on bungalows and cottage-style houses. In the 1920s, jerkinhead roofs started catching on in the United States. Architect Gilbert Stanley Underwood, a park lodge designer for the Utah Parks Company and a fan of late 18th-century English architecture, included jerkinhead roofs in many of his rustic designs.

His contemporary, architect Herbert Maier, further popularized the style through the buildings he designed for several national parks. Thanks in large part to their work, jerkinhead roofs became a frequent choice for Craftsman bungalows.

Not limited to rustic cabins, these roofs are also found on Tudor, Stick Style, and Queen Anne houses, as well as more modern English cottage and Craftsman foursquare houses around the country. Churches built between the 1920s and 1950s are also frequently topped with jerkinhead roofs.

Good Weather-Resistance at a Moderate Cost

The greatest advantage of this roof is its reliability. A jerkinhead roof combines not just the appearance, but also the physical strength of both gable and hipped roofs. The system of trusses and rafters used in framing a jerkinhead roof, as well as the relatively shallow pitch, lends it greater stability than a gable roof or even a standard hipped roof.

A gable roof leaves two sides of the house exposed to wind, making the roof vulnerable to wind uplift. With only one ridge, though, it’s unlikely to leak. While a hipped roof lets wind flow over without causing damage, the additional ridges make it more vulnerable to leaks. A jerkinhead roof provides greater wind resistance without the increased risk of leaks, so it’s a practical choice in areas with heavy rains and high winds. It sheds snow as efficiently as a gable roof, and in sunny weather, the clipped gable partially shades the upper floor windows.

Aesthetically, this roof lends the house a friendlier, more approachable air compared to a sharp, towering gable peak. That’s one aspect that made it popular for rustic bungalows. As one of the less common roof styles, a jerkinhead roof gives the whole house a distinctive look.

The style’s main drawback is the cost of both labor and materials. Because it’s essentially a combination of two different roof styles, it’s more complex than either alone and takes more time, effort, and materials to build. Adding to the workload, jerkinhead roofs can be tricky to ventilate, although most still have room for gable vents. Even so, they’re typically less expensive than gambrel or pyramid roofs.

Constructing one takes specialized knowledge, and while it’s not especially hard to find a contractor with the ability, you’ll need to make sure the one you choose truly understands how to frame jerkinhead roofing. Maintaining one also takes some extra effort because the clipped gable is difficult to access for cleaning and repairs.

A low-pitched jerkinhead roof gives you a little less overhead space in your attic than a standard gable roof, but more than you’d get with a hipped roof.

A traditional roof with a twist, the jerkinhead roof looks as good on a stately Queen Anne home as it does on a rustic cottage. If the charm and durability of this roof appeal to you, take the time to find a roofing contractor experienced in the style and have a plan for maintenance once the roof is up.

From its humble storage shed origins, the skillion roof has risen to popularity as a sophisticated choice for modern homes. It’s versatile enough to suit a range of minimalist architectural styles, and its durability and low cost make it exceptionally practical.

Also known as a shed roof, lean-to roof or mono-pitched roof, a skillion roof consists of a single flat surface with a steep pitch toward one side. It’s essentially a flat roof with one side higher than the other. In addition to the standard one-section style, these roofs come in several other styles.

Split Skillion – This roof is comprised of two separate sections, with one set higher than the other. A vertical wall joins the two sections, typically somewhere over the middle of the house. The sections usually slope in opposite directions, but occasionally slope in the same direction. When they slope in opposite directions, the roof looks similar to a traditional gable roof, but instead of meeting at a peak in the middle, the two halves of the roof are offset.

Multiple Skillion – This design uses several sections of roof, typically three to five, at varying heights and in varying sizes.

Butterfly (Double Skillion) – Named for the shape of a butterfly’s upraised wings, this V-shaped roof is made of two sides that slope steeply downward to form a valley running between the front and back of the house. It’s specifically designed to collect rainwater that’s then directed into a holding tank. It stands up well to high winds, but it’s more expensive and harder to install and maintain than most traditional roofs.

Standing seam metal, asphalt shingles, and roll roofing are popular material choices that contribute to the skillion roof’s modern vibe. For a more traditional look, wood shakes and clay tiles work well.

A Fresh New Look for a Utilitarian Design

The lean-to style roof is centuries old, but it became particularly popular in Victorian England for use on home extensions. From there, it was exported to Australia, where the term “skillion” refers to a lean-to used as an extra room or storage shed. Because these small buildings are built against the wall of another, larger building, a full traditional gable or hipped roof would only waste space. Instead, these buildings need only “half” a gable roof with the peak attached to the main building’s wall.

Although the roof was widely used for home extensions, it wasn’t until the middle of the 20th century that it really caught on for use on free-standing buildings. With its simple profile, the style fit with Mid-Century architecture’s focus on flat planes, but offered several advantages over the standard flat roof that was popular at the time. Today, these roofs are used around the world to lend a contemporary look to homes and businesses in both suburban and rural areas.

Contemporary Appeal with Moderate Maintenance Demands

The main appeal of a skillion roof is its modern aesthetic. It combines a striking form with a restrained sophistication that’s ideal for any architectural style that emphasizes minimalism. The roof’s simplicity complements a variety of landscaping styles, giving you more freedom to experiment and change up your landscaping when the mood strikes.

It allows for a range of slopes from a steep 9/12 to a flatter 3/12 slope, although your choice affects what roofing materials you can use. Standing seam metal and rubber are good for a low-pitched roof, but asphalt shingles and clay tile require a roof pitch of at least 4/12 unless special underlayment is used.

Affordability is another big benefit of the skillion roof. The style requires less material than most traditional roofs and is also easier and quicker to build, all of which brings down the cost.

A skillion roof with a steep slope provides excellent drainage. This reduces the risk of leaks and other water damage. If you love the sleek look of a flat roof, but don’t want to deal with the drainage issues, a skillion roof is an excellent alternative.

The style is easy to customize. The long, flat plane provides plenty of space for skylights, which give you more natural light indoors and reduce your energy costs. It also accommodates solar panels to lower your energy bills even more. The single low edge makes it easy to collect rainwater for your lawn and garden. By orienting your house with the low side of the roof toward the street or your neighbors, you limit the view into your house and give yourself more privacy.

A skillion roof is overall more durable than a flat roof or even a gable roof. While it’s as vulnerable to wind damage as a gable roof, you can reduce the risk by orienting the roof in a way that reduces the effects of the prevailing winds. If your area is prone to storms, consider using a multiple skillion roof for greater wind resistance.

Because drainage is all on one side, these roofs require a little extra attention to maintenance. You’ll need box gutters, which consist of wood framing lined with thin galvanized steel sheet metal. These gutters are wider and stronger than average, so they can handle heavy rain flow, but they also need more frequent cleaning to prevent clogs.

A skillion roof doesn’t allow for a traditional attic because the ceiling of your living space follows the slope of the roof. If you want to maximize your overhead space, a partial loft is still an option.

Its austere appearance doesn’t suit every home, but for Mid-Century, Minimalist, Industrial, and other architectural styles that put simplicity at the fore, the skillion roof is a practical way to get a modern look while keeping costs and maintenance requirements low.

By replacing your worn-out roof, you’ll be giving your home better protection from the elements and improving its aesthetics. If your shingle roof is showing signs of wear, there’s more than one way to revitalize it. Having a full tearoff will give you all the advantages of a brand new roof. If you’re on a budget and your old roof is still in good shape, though, a roof overlay might make more sense for you.

Tearoffs: Reliable and Long-Lasting

As the name implies, this roof replacement method involves completely tearing off your existing roofing, then putting on a new roof.

Advantages

All-new material – With a roof tearoff, every part of your roofing will be replaced with new material. If your decking or underlayment were deteriorating, that problem will be solved. Your roofer can also find and repair any developing leaks, which protects your whole home from mold and rot.

The option to upgrade – Construction companies don’t always use the highest quality materials, so if you bought an old house, a roof replacement is a good opportunity to upgrade. Before work starts, your roofer can help you choose the ideal materials for your roof. You might want to switch from OSB (oriented strand board) to CDX plywood decking or use a synthetic roof underlayment instead of felt, depending on which is best for your roof’s structure and your climate conditions.

Greater durability – As you might expect, a roof made of all-new materials will last longer than a roof with parts that have been exposed to the elements for a decade or more. During a tearoff, your roofer will have the chance to thoroughly examine all parts of your roof and make repairs to stop any developing problems before they cause serious damage.

Longer lifespan – A new, properly installed shingle roof can last 20 to 30 years, meaning it could potentially outlast an overlay by a decade or more.

Increased property value – A brand new roof can add more than $10,000 to your home’s resale value and also acts as a strong selling point. This makes a tearoff a smart choice if you’re planning to sell within the next few years. Any increase in the appraised value of your home depends on the condition of your existing roof. You’ll see a greater increase by replacing a deteriorating, leaky roof than by replacing a roof with only cosmetic damage.

Disadvantages

Higher costs – On average, a tearoff roofing job costs around 25 percent more than an overlay. It takes a lot more labor to completely remove all the existing roofing material and then replace all the layers removed. The old roofing also has to be disposed of properly, which adds to the cost.

Overlays: Budget-friendly and Convenient

With this quicker, cheaper alternative, new shingles are installed on top of the existing shingles. This is only possible if the roof hasn’t been overlaid previously.

Advantages

Lower costs – Because there’s so much less labor involved in simply installing new shingles over old ones, an overlay will cost you less than a tearout. Your roofer won’t need to rent a dumpster and deal with debris disposal regulations, so you’ll save on costs there, too. If you’re planning on completely replacing your roof within the next five to 10 years, an overlay is a practical way to enjoy the look of a new roof in the meantime. Just be aware that the extra layer of shingles will add to the cost of your next roof replacement.

Shorter work timeline – An overlay can be finished days sooner than a tearoff. That’s less time you’ll need to spend out of the house, saving you money and stress.

Less risk – Compared to a complete roof replacement, there’s a lot less that can go wrong during an overlay job. There’s no risk of a sudden storm interfering with the dry-in process, no falling debris that could damage your porch or your car, and no big dumpsters that could wreck your landscaping.

Disadvantages

Lower quality – For an overlay to be as reliable as a tearoff, your existing roof would have to be in near-optimal condition. The problem is that without removing the shingles, your roofer can’t properly examine the roof to find out what condition it’s in. An experienced roofer might still be able to spot signs of hidden damage or make a good guess based on your roof’s age, but you’re relying on luck at that point.

Shorter lifespan – As you might expect, new shingles laid over damaged shingles and rotting decking won’t last as long as they could. To make matters worse, a roof with two layers of shingles holds in more heat, which speeds up deterioration. On average, an overlay lasts around 16 years. That said, for most shingles, the warranty is valid for the same length of time whether the shingles were used in an overlay or a tearoff.

Additional weight – The weight of another full layer of shingles places additional stress on the roof decking and your home’s structure. If your home is older or just somewhat structurally unsound, an overlay might not be a viable option.

Less visual appeal – Chances are your old shingles have suffered a fair amount of wear that’s left some of them torn, curling, or uneven. Those damaged shingles provide a substandard base for new shingles, so your new roof could turn out noticeably flawed no matter how skilled your roofer. Imperfect results are even more likely it your roof was made with something other than common three-tab shingles. If you’re unhappy with the overlay, you could end up paying for a tearout to have the whole thing redone before you planned.

Trickier maintenance – Another layer of shingles adds another layer of complexity to your roof. This makes it harder to track down the origin of any problems that develop. If a leak forms, the water will move through both layers of shingles, changing direction in a way that hides the source.

Before you can decide whether an overlay or a tearoff is the better choice, you’ll need to have an experienced roofer assess your roof. In most cases, unless you’re sure your existing roof is in good condition, a tearoff is the better option. The lower cost might make an overlay sound tempting, but if it leaves damage lingering under the new shingles, it puts your whole house at risk for moisture problems.

The classic neutral tones of wood, metal, and asphalt roof shingles have their own unique beauty, but they don’t suit every home or every taste. If your shingles are a little too drab for your style, paint can liven them up. Some colors can even make your home a little more comfortable.

That said, while it is possible to paint roof shingles, there are some challenges involved that might make you reconsider whether or not you really want to.

When Painting Shingles Makes Sense

Paint is a practical option for improving the look of a roof that might be an off color, but is otherwise structurally sound.

Maybe you’ve just bought a house with a relatively new roof in a color that doesn’t appeal to you. With paint, you can change the roof color without wasting money and time replacing a perfectly good roof. Paint also works well when you need to even out your roof color, such as when the shingles on your newly built addition don’t quite match the shade of the rest of the roof.

If you’re not a fan of shingles, but you live in a historic building where regulations mean you’re stuck with them, you might still be able to paint your shingles to get a look that suits your preferences better.

Paint can’t waterproof your roof or seal roof leaks, though, so it isn’t the way to go if you’re looking to prevent or repair damage. Damaged or deteriorating shingles put your whole house at risk for moisture problems and should be replaced.

Painted Shingles Mean Extra Maintenance

Unpainted shingles can look good for 20 years or more with only minimal maintenance. Painted shingles, on the other hand, start showing wear much faster and usually need re-painting once every five to seven years. Each time, the roof will need to be cleaned and repaired, then primed and painted.

What’s more, paint on the roof is hit harder by sunlight, rain, wind, and snow, so it will fade faster than the paint on your exterior walls. If you want to keep a certain amount of contrast between your walls and roof, you might need to repaint your roof more often than average.

Paint Can Put Your Roof at Risk for Moisture Problems

If you decide to paint your roof shingles, using the right paint is critical. Look for an acrylic (water-based) paint specially designed for use on roofs. This type of paint lets accumulated moisture escape from the shingles. Avoid elastomeric (waterproofing) paint, which is known to trap moisture in shingles, encouraging the growth of mold and algae, which contribute to rot.

Even a roof with metal or asphalt shingles is at risk for rot. The shingles themselves might hold up, but trapped moisture can still damage the wooden sheathing under them and create leaks.

Finding a Contractor Might Not be Easy

Painting shingles, while entirely possible, isn’t a request roofing contractors get often. In fact, some won’t even know what type of paint can be used or whether it can be done at all. Those who do understand the basics still might not have the experience needed to feel comfortable guaranteeing their work.

It’s worth calling around and asking, but if your area has a limited supply of roofers, there’s a good chance you’ll have to paint your shingles yourself.

Because working on the roof presents a fall hazard, safety equipment, such as water-resistant safety shoes and a safety harness, is a must. If you don’t already have this equipment, buying it will add to the cost of your first roof painting job. This is another reason it’s better to hire a pro when possible.

The Right Color Can Improve Your Home’s Energy Efficiency

If you decide to go ahead with your roof-painting plans despite the potential difficulties, the color you choose could have benefits for your whole house.

If you live in a warm climate, you know how useful light colors are for reflecting heat and keeping things cool. The same principal can work for your roof. A white roof, when kept clean, reflects more than 80 percent of the sunlight that falls on it. That, in turn, keeps your whole house cooler.

Improving your roof’s reflectivity by just 40 to 50 percent can reduce your cooling bills by around 20 percent. The effects are greatest in single-story buildings. In multi-story homes, the upper floors will benefit the most.

To really take advantage of your roof’s cooling potential, look into cool roof coatings. These coatings, which are somewhat thicker than paint, contain white or reflective pigments that reflect sunlight.

On the other hand, if you live in a climate where heating is a greater priority than cooling, you’ll be better off sticking with a dark color. A dark roof will absorb the sun’s warmth in spring and autumn when the surface isn’t covered with snow.

Paint is an affordable, flexible option for changing the look of a shingle roof that’s in good condition, but could use some aesthetic improvement.

Before you jump in, though, make sure you’re comfortable with the maintenance a painted shingle roof requires and the fact that you might have to do the work yourself. If that doesn’t put you off, take the time to find a paint that won’t contribute to moisture problems. Do the job with care, and you can give your house a fresh look at a fraction of the cost of new shingles.

Spotting a sagging area in your roof is always worrying. While a little sagging doesn’t necessarily mean your roof is in imminent danger of collapse, it does mean you need to act soon to save the structure. Often, a saggy roof can be repaired and reinforced. To preserve your roof, it’s worth hiring a professional to determine the exact cause of the sagging and take steps to correct it.

Water Damage to a Weak Roof Surface

Rain and snow can quickly damage a roof that isn’t optimally designed and well maintained. Shingles and other roofing material must be in good condition to allow water to run off. Metal flashing should be installed on the valleys and junctions of your roof to direct water away. Damage to any part of the roof’s surface gives water a way to get in and weaken the underlying structure.

A damaged or poorly designed gutter system can also lead to water issues. If water runoff isn’t safely directed away via the gutters, it can pool on the roof and eventually seep in.

Poor ventilation in the attic exacerbates water problems. Without enough airflow in the attic, moisture builds up on the underside of the roof, making it easier for water to permeate the roof’s surface. It also allows summer heat to build up, speeding up the deterioration of your shingles.

If water damage is causing your roof to sag, your first step will be to correct the problems that allowed the damage to occur. That might mean replacing the shingles and flashing, repairing your gutters, and improving the attic ventilation.

To correct the sagging itself, angled braces can be installed to shore up the rafters. Another approach is to give more support to the walls by installing chains attached to the wall plates and linked in the middle with a turnbuckle. Depending on the degree of sagging, your contractor might need to use jack posts to raise the roof before installing any reinforcement.

Excess Weight from Snow and Design Flaws

Every roof is designed to support a specific maximum weight and anything above this, especially for long periods, can cause the roof to sag. In cold-winter climates, snow is the most common cause of excess weight on the roof.

If you suspect snow is causing your roof to sag, for your own safety and to protect your roof, consider calling a professional to clear your roof of heavy snowfall. Incorrect snow removal can further damage your roof, making it more vulnerable to water damage and worsened sagging. A roof rake can help you deal with lighter snowfall. Keep your attic well insulated and ventilated to prevent ice dams, which can cause roof leaks.

Weight-related sagging can also be caused by design flaws that leave the roof unable to support its own weight. Common flaws include undersized rafters, insufficient sheathing or too few rafter or collar ties.

In a stick frame (non-truss) sloped roof, these issues usually cause the roof ridge to sag in the middle, giving it a swayback look, but can also cause one side of the roof to sag. Installing new rafters directly alongside the weak or damaged ones is often enough to correct this problem.

If the roof sags between the rafters or trusses, the most likely cause is sheathing that’s too thin for the area it covers. The fix here is to replace the thin sheathing with thicker, sturdier sheathing.

Multiple layers of shingles and new roofing material that’s heavier than the roof was designed for can cause sagging even in a well-constructed roof.

If your roof is sagging under the weight of too many shingles, ideally, all the shingles should be removed, and a new set installed. This gives your roofer a chance to inspect the flashing and roof underlayment for damage. If your roof started sagging after you switched to heavier roofing material, such as by replacing wood shingles with clay tiles, you’ll probably need to go back to the lighter material.

Less Common Causes of a Sagging Roof

Poor quality roofing material and faulty installation can cause a roof to slump. Low-quality materials are more prone to water and weather damage, and generally deteriorate faster.

Even the highest quality materials don’t last forever, though. On average, a roof lasts between 15 to 30 years depending on the design, the materials used, and your climate. If your roof is more than 30 years old, rebuilding it will be the most effective approach to dealing with sagging.

Problems with the roof itself aren’t the only reason a roof might sag. If your foundation has shifted or sunk, your walls and roof might have shifted along with it. In this case, you’ll probably notice tilting and cracks in your foundation. To repair major foundation damage, you’ll need to talk with a construction professional.

Once a roof has started to sag, it will only get worse and more expensive to repair. Eventually, it could cave in, causing damage to the rest your home and injury or even death to anyone in its path. To protect your home and your family, get in touch with a roofing professional who can determine the cause of the sagging, assess the damage, and recommend repair options.

One of the most expensive parts of your home to repair is the roof. Sadly, this is also one of the most common places to find poor workmanship. A badly built or repaired roof can lead to numerous problems in the future, including further roof work and structural damage due to leaks.

The good news is that you don’t have to be an expert to spot a bad roofing job. The following are several common signs that your roofer wasn’t worth the cost.

Appearance Tests

A large percentage of poor roofing jobs can be spotted easily; some are even visible from the ground. In most cases, these visual signs will occur long after the roof is built and will be the result of storm damage or general erosion.

Spotting any of these shortly after a roofing job, especially if there were no major storms, can be a prime indicator that the roofing contractor did a poor job.

Missing or Damaged Shingles

After a major storm, it is not uncommon to find some shingle damage. However, if your home is the only one on the block to suffer such damage, the quality of the roof itself must be brought into question.

Small sections of shingle can be replaced without needing to repair the entire roof, although you should get a professional roof inspection in the event the damage is unique to your home.

Stains

Water leaks may often be spotted by black stains on your roof. Inspect any such stains closely, and check your attic in those areas to determine the extent of the leak and any damage which has resulted from it.

Isolated leaks can sometimes be fixed without replacing the entire roof, but extensive damage, including numerous spots where the grainy surface of the shingles has come off, points to a much larger problem that requires extensive repair work and possibly a new roof.

Uniformity

Under normal circumstances, a roof will wear evenly along each individual side. This is true even if one side faces into the weather and the other away from it. Check your roof often to make sure one side isn’t wearing down too quickly.

As you look for signs of damage, take note of any shingles which are the wrong color or size. Mismatched shingles are a common sign of your contractor cutting corners and can lead to additional damage.

A difference in materials may also mean that the new sections of roof will age at a different rate than the rest of the roof, leading to further repair jobs down the road.

Structural Tests

While it might be easy to check for some problems visually, others require a little more work. These are no less important, as they can easily lead to leaks and greater storm damage if not addressed.

Hardware Mistakes

Making a watertight roof requires more than just shingles. Flashing and proper attachment methods are also vital to a lasting roof. Flashing should be properly installed and caulked. This is especially important when you have added an extension to the house, and the two roofs connect.

Additionally, different roofs require different nails. Choosing the wrong size, spacing too far, or nailing the shingles too low will all cause leaks and possibly dislodged shingles in the next major storm or case of high winds. Checking the hardware is not as easy as other potential problems, but is nonetheless important.

Missing Drip Edge

The drip edge is a metal sheet that protects the board under the edge of your roof (fascia) from water damage. It is located between the underlayment and shingles, and extends over the gutter when installed properly. Drip edges are affixed using roofing cement and sometimes also a row of short roofing nails placed well above the edge of the shingles.

Some of the damage which may occur due to a missing drip edge include:

• flooded basement
• mold
• rot
• soil erosion along the foundation
• staining

Missing Underlayment

The underlayment is a layer of paper or other material that serves as a waterproofing barrier and can be found beneath the shingles. A missing underlayment will not only lead to roof leaks, but may even shorten the lifespan of your roof.

Contractor Red Lights

In many cases, you can avoid a bad roofing job before it happens. There are several red lights to watch out for when hiring a roofing contractor. Any one of these deserves caution, while more than one means you should find someone else before the work begins.

Evaluations

Be wary of any contractor who does not thoroughly discuss any structures, such as chimneys or skylights, which protrude through the roof.  An inspection of the attic or underside of the roof is also necessary before any roofing project.

A good contractor will take the time to thoroughly examine the site, answer any questions you may have about the job, and explain what needs to be done and why. Contractors who simply hand you an estimate will likely do a poor job on your roof and hope you don’t notice.

Paperwork

You should always check up on a potential contractor, regardless of the job. A reliable contractor will readily show you their certifications, as well as insurance info. In fact, many contractors carry a copy with them when in the field. These documents will be necessary in order to obtain a permit, which they should also be willing to show you before work begins.

A properly licensed contractor will never ask you to obtain the building permits yourself. This is a very important red flag, as it almost always means the contractor is unlicensed and uninsured. By obtaining the permits on the builder’s behalf, you become liable for all costs and injuries that may occur on the job, including wasted materials or property damage.

Another thing to check is whether the contractor has obtained any necessary disposal permits. Depending on your municipality, special documentation or permits may be required for the disposal of waste from the project. Always check with your local code enforcer’s office to find out any additional documentation your contractor should have before starting work.