HVAC

If you heat with oil, switching to natural gas can save you money, reduce your emissions, and cut down on the maintenance you need to do. Oil to gas heating conversion is a relatively straightforward process, although it can take a few weeks if you don’t currently use gas.

The cost varies from around $5,000 to more than $10,000, depending on your home’s size and layout, and whether or not you already have a gas supply.

Preparing Your Gas Supply

As the first step in the conversion process, the installer you choose will assess your home to determine the exact steps you’ll need to take and give you an idea of the cost. If you already have gas lines and a gas meter, you’re probably all set for gas heating.

Even so, you’ll still need to have a professional check that the lines are the correct size for use with gas heating equipment. Once you’ve verified that your existing gas lines are an appropriate size, contact your gas provider to have service turned on.

If your house has never used gas or the existing lines aren’t the correct size, you’ll need new lines installed. There are two types of gas lines: main lines and service lines. A main line, or distribution line, supplies gas to the whole neighborhood. A service line connects your home to the main line.

In regions where gas heating is common, most residential areas already have main lines, so you’ll only need service and a meter installed. Your heating equipment installer can help you make plans for where the service line and meter should be installed. You can then submit an application for installation to your chosen gas provider. Typically, you’ll need to wait between two to six weeks for the line to be installed.

Converting to gas in stages is another option. If your oil equipment is relatively new and in good condition, you can have a line installed now, then have it extended when you’re ready to install new gas equipment. This lets you get the most out of your existing equipment, yet still be ready for a quick conversion when the need arises.

If your neighborhood doesn’t have a main line, you can still convert from oil to gas heating, but you’ll need to have a main line installed. That can take up to six months and costs far more than service line installation.

Convert or Replace Your Oil Equipment

Once your gas supply is set up, you’ll need to decide whether to convert your existing oil equipment to gas or to remove your existing system and install new gas equipment. If your oil equipment is more than 15 years old, consider replacement.

Although these systems can last 25 years or more, they lose efficiency and sustain wear every year. What’s more, equipment designed for natural gas is more efficient than any converted oil system.

You might also need to have a chimney liner installed to protect your chimney from the acidic gases and condensation the furnace produces. You won’t need this if you plan to use a high-efficiency condensing furnace.

If your oil equipment is less than 15 years old and still works reliably, it might be more practical to convert it. This means replacing the burner and possibly the igniter and skid as well. You’ll need to buy a conversion kit and have it professionally installed. Conversion could void your oil equipment’s warranty, so check with the manufacturer first if you’re concerned about this.  

Deactivating Your Oil Tank

Because you’ll no longer be using your oil tank, you’ll need to ensure it won’t cause issues in the future. If your oil tank is above ground, your installer can take it to a scrap yard for recycling for you.

Dealing with an underground tank is more complex because, if neglected, these tanks can leak and cause soil contamination that could cost you thousands to clean up. Some municipalities require complete removal of underground tanks while others let you shut down the tank without moving it through a process called abandonment.

Removal means physically taking the whole tank off your property and transporting it to a scrap yard. For this, you’ll need to apply for a permit from your municipality and call a contractor who’s licensed for oil tank removal.

The contractor will start by removing all usable oil from the tank for recycling. They’ll then prepare the tank for safe removal, remove the tank, clean it and prepare it for safe transport, and finally take it away. If the tank was underground, the contractor will handle any contaminated soil according to local and federal guidelines, then fill in the hole.

Abandonment is a cheaper option, but it’s rarely done because even abandoned tanks still pose some risk of leaks. The process is only possible if the tank is in good condition with no leaks, and you’ll still need to hire a licensed contractor.

Abandonment starts with a soil analysis to ensure there are no leaks or areas of soil contamination. If none are found, the contractor can open the tank, clean and inspect it, then fill it with sand or foam. Most states require homeowners to register abandoned underground oil tanks and disclose their location when selling the house. Having an old tank on your property could make it harder to sell your house in the future.

If you’re considering an oil to gas heating conversion, start planning well ahead of when you’d like to make the switch. Converting oil equipment or installing new gas equipment can be done in a day, but hooking up your gas supply and removing a buried oil tank takes some time.

Your comfort over the winter depends on the right furnace, but the complexities of furnace technology can make it hard to know which model to choose. Air flow configuration – upflow, downflow, and horizontal flow – is just one factor you might need to consider.

If designed and installed correctly, any of these systems can keep your home comfortable. The right configuration for your home depends largely on where the furnace will be located.

Upflow Furnaces: Ideal for the Basement

In an upflow furnace, cool air from your house enters either at the bottom or top of the air handler, depending on the furnace model, and heated air flows out the top. The heated air then moves into the supply ductwork and off to your rooms. Upflow furnaces are most often installed in basements and, less commonly, in crawl spaces.

In these locations, the ductwork is above the furnace, so the upflow configuration takes advantage of the laws of thermodynamics. Because warm air rises, thanks to the law of convection, air from an upflow furnace in the basement naturally rises toward the rooms above it. It needs less help from the blower fan to move into the ducts, so you save some energy.

On the other hand, if an upflow furnace were installed in an attic, you’d be wasting energy. The heated air would naturally rise toward your roof, so the blower fan would have to use more energy trying to push it down toward your rooms.

Upflow furnaces come in “highboy” and “lowboy” models. Highboys are typically no higher than 6 feet and designed with the blower fan under the heat exchanger. Lowboys are a maximum of 4 feet high with the blower fan behind or beside the heat exchanger to save vertical space. While shorter, lowboys tend to be deeper front to back than highboys. Both can perform equally well, but lowboys are more practical for low-ceiling basements.

An upflow furnace in the basement offers several advantages beyond energy efficiency. The airflow will come from floor registers, rather than the ceiling registers common in attic installations. Warm air from below tends to be more comfortable and is less likely to pool in one place compared to warm air from above. Installation is also simpler. You won’t need to upgrade the flooring as you would with an attic furnace.

Downflow Furnaces: A More Efficient Choice for the Attic

Also known as “downdraft” or “counterflow” furnaces, downflow furnaces are designed to bring in cool air through the top of the air handler and release heated air from the bottom. These models are usually installed in the attic or, less often, in a closest on the home’s main floor or in the garage. They’re the most popular choice for homes with a slab foundation or a crawl space rather than a basement.

The benefit of these furnaces is that they can be installed in any type of home. If you don’t have a basement or crawl space, an upflow furnace just isn’t a practical choice. You aren’t necessarily stuck with ceiling registers, either. In many homes, downflow furnaces can also work with floor registers.

On the downside, these furnaces work against the natural tendency of warm air to flow upward, so they’re less efficient than upflow models. Even though the furnace releases air at the bottom, that air will still want to rise. What’s more, if you want your furnace in the attic, you’ll need to have the subflooring reinforced to support the extra weight and a separate subbase installed as a fire-resistant barrier between the furnace and flooring. That’s a minor construction job in itself.

Horizontal Flow Furnaces: Space-saving and Flexible

A horizontal furnace is designed with the components in a horizontal row, so the unit looks like it’s lying on its side. Cool air flows in on one side, and heated air flows out the other. These furnaces are designed as either “horizontal left” or “horizontal right,” referring to the side the heated air comes from. This gives your HVAC installer more options for designing the most efficient setup for your home.

Horizontal flow systems are most often installed in attics, and crawl spaces where space is limited due to a low ceiling and a standard upflow or downflow furnace just won’t fit.

Upflow/horizontal and downflow/horizontal models are also available. These offer two possible configurations. For example, an upflow/horizontal model can be configured as an upflow furnace or as a horizontal flow furnace, depending on your home’s needs.

For maximum flexibility, there are multi-positional or “multipoise” furnaces. Your installer can configure one of these as upflow, downflow or either left- or right-side horizontal flow.

A furnace with the right air flow configuration for your home’s design will keep you more comfortable and help control your heating costs. If your home has a basement, chances are your installer will recommend an upflow furnace or, if the ceiling is very low, a horizontal flow model. No basement? Then a downflow model is most likely the way to go, but you have a few choices for where it’s installed.

If you’re not sure, ask your HVAC installer. No two homes are exactly alike, and your installer can explain the nuances of why a particular air flow configuration is the best option for your home.

When the seasons change, you might start looking forward to the scent of spring flowers or crisp fall air, but the odor of dirty gym socks moldering in a forgotten corner of a locker room probably isn’t on the list. For many homeowners, though, this unpleasant smell is exactly what shows up.

Known as dirty sock syndrome, it can be a frustrating situation, but it usually isn’t difficult to get rid of once you learn the underlying causes.

The Source of the Smell

“Dirty sock syndrome” is the term used for what happens when a heating and cooling system produces an unpleasant dank, musty smell reminiscent of dirty socks. In milder cases, the odor might be similar to the dusty smell produced when the system is first turned on after it hasn’t been used in a while. It’s mostly noticeable when the air conditioning kicks on or when the heat pump goes into the defrost cycle.

It might sound like something made up by a frustrated homeowner, but dirty sock syndrome is exactly what HVAC professionals call it. The cause, not surprisingly, is the same thing that makes long-forgotten dirty socks smell: a buildup of mold and bacterial slime.

The problem starts during air conditioning season, when the evaporator (indoor) coil is cool and damp, allowing microbes to thrive there. When you switch to heating in fall, the microbial slime dries out. As the weather grows colder, at some point, the HVAC system will run a defrost cycle in between periods of heating.

It’s this switching back and forth between heating and cooling that causes the mold and bacterial slime to emit a foul odor. It can also happen in spring when you switch between heating in the morning and late evening, and cooling in the afternoon.

You might notice the smell goes away when you run the system on only heating or only cooling for a long period, but that doesn’t mean the problem is solved. On the other hand, if your HVAC system produces unpleasant odors all the time, especially in heating mode, your problem is something other than dirty sock syndrome.

The problem can happen in any type of heating and cooling system that uses an evaporator coil, but it’s most common in heat pump systems. In gas furnace systems, the heat produced is usually intense enough to kill off any microorganisms.

Dirty sock syndrome tends to happen more often in newer HVAC systems. Some HVAC professionals have theorized that manufacturers have been using more porous aluminum for evaporator coils made in the last decade or so. This more porous surface provides more microscopic nooks and crannies where mold and bacteria can grow. Dust in the system further exacerbates odor problems by providing bacteria with food.

The good news is there’s nothing wrong with your HVAC equipment. It most cases it just needs a good cleaning and better maintenance in the future.

Mildew Odors and Your Health

It’s logical to assume mold and bacteria powerful enough to stink up the whole house would be a threat to your health, but in reality, dirty sock syndrome is rarely dangerous. At lower levels, the odor-causing microbes won’t affect someone with a healthy immune system.

That said, if someone in your household has a weakened immune system or respiratory problems, such as asthma, they could be at increased risk of harm. What’s more, if the mold spreads, it can start growing throughout your HVAC system, putting more mold spores into the air and creating a greater health threat that could affect otherwise healthy people.

So even if you can tolerate the odor for a while, it’s important to treat dirty sock syndrome as soon as possible before the problem spreads.

Getting Rid of HVAC Odors

Before you treat your HVAC system for dirty sock syndrome, make sure that’s actually what you’re dealing with. Foul odors can come from many sources, so inspect your system for other possible causes.

Clean the drain pan – Empty the drain pan under the indoor evaporator coil and check for blockages. If you can pour in a small amount of water and it pools instead of draining away, the condensate drain line is clogged. In this case, you’ll need to use a wet-vac to remove the clog via the outdoor cleanout line.

Inspect plumbing drain lines – Lines connected to plumbing systems can start to smell when the p-traps have dried out or deteriorated.

Look for duct blockages – Rodent nests, dead rodents, and insect infestations are all possible causes of odors.  

Look for duct leaks – Inspect the accessible parts of your duct system for loose or unsealed connections between sections of metal ductwork, tears in flex duct, and ducts with open ends that empty into wall chases or other open spaces. These can draw odors from the attic, basement, and walls into your rooms.

Check the air filter – If your A/C air filter is wet, you have a moisture problem that could well be causing the odors you notice. A clogged filter can contribute to odors, among other problems, so change the filter according to the manufacturer’s directions.  In most homes, a standard fiberglass filter should be replaced every three months.

If you’ve taken all these steps and you’re still getting that locker room smell every time the A/C kicks on, your system most likely has dirty sock syndrome and your evaporator coil should be cleaned. To treat a mild case, it might be enough to clean the evaporator yourself using a foaming coil cleaner. If this doesn’t solve the problem, contact a professional to have the coil cleaned more thoroughly. For a severe case, you might need a new evaporator coil.

Keeping Your System Smelling Good

Once you get your coil clean and your house smelling fresh again, some preventive measures will reduce the risk of the odor coming back. These steps benefit your whole HVAC system, so they’re well worth the investment.

If you’ve been using standard 1-inch fiberglass filters, upgrade to a more efficient synthetic media or cotton-polyester filter with a Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value (MERV) of 5 to 11. These trap more airborne particles, starving microbes of food.

Keep an eye on how well your air conditioner’s condensate drain works. If it frequently clogs or never drains efficiently, it might be damaged and need replacing.

Make sure the joints between the duct sections and points where the ducts connect to air registers are sealed with mastic or foil tape that’s in good condition. If there’s no sealing at these points or it’s deteriorating, reseal. Sealing your ductwork helps keep excess moisture and dust out of your ducts. It also improves your ducts’ energy efficiency, lowering your heating and cooling bills.

Contact an HVAC professional certified by the National Air Duct Cleaners Association (NADCA) and schedule a duct inspection. A properly installed duct system picks up little if any debris, so most only need cleaning every five to 10 years. Even so, there’s always a chance a problem such as a rodent infestation or water leak could pop up and start to produce foul odors. An inspection will tell you if your ducts are contributing to your system’s odor problems and whether or not they should be cleaned. 

Consider having a UV light installed in your system to shine on the evaporator coil and kill any microorganisms that might end up there.

As unpleasant as it is to discover your air conditioner is filling your house with the odor of stinky gym socks, the problem is rarely serious. Most cases of dirty sock syndrome can be solved with a thorough cleaning. Getting this taken care of as soon as possible prevents microbes from spreading through your HVAC system where they could grow into a much larger problem. Once the odor is gone, take steps to prevent any future mold and bacteria growth in your HVAC system.

There are times when your HVAC system just doesn’t seem to be doing enough. Connecting rooms may be receiving air unevenly, or the furthest rooms may not be getting enough air. Many contractors will suggest installing booster fans, but do they really work?

The short answer is, yes and no. Your mileage may vary based on several factors, so it is best to look at where these fans succeed and fail before making a final decision.

Types of Booster Fans

There are two major classes of booster fans available on the market, each with their own specific uses. In a few extreme cases, you may wish to use a mix of both. However, most homes will only require one type of fan, and the decision may come down to personal preference.

Inline Booster Fans

Inline booster fans are located within the ducts themselves, activating as needed to help maintain airflow. They are best used for houses that have a large network of ducts. Quiet and efficient, inline fans are a cheaper alternative to replacing your duct system entirely.

While these fans range in price from $30 to $200, they also have added installation fees involved. An inline fan is designed to replace a section of ductwork and is often hard-wired into the furnace.

This means you will need an electrician and the section of duct must be exposed before installing. You will also need to choose an appropriate size for your ductwork.

Register Fan

Unlike inline fans, register fans are installed within each room and plug directly into the wall. This means much cheaper installation, although their power is more limited in larger buildings. Costing between $30 and $80, some more expensive models sport a digital thermostat, multiple speeds, and remote control functionality.

Where Booster Fans Work

Booster fans are useful for helping to pull air out of the ductwork and into a room. They won’t solve an airflow problem on their own, but may be a cost-effective means to circumvent to more expensive repairs.

Register Fans for Ducts in Older Homes

The ductwork in older houses was not designed to accommodate modern HVAC systems and thus often fail to provide even heating. Register fans are a cheap solution which helps to pull air into a room while the furnace is running.

Choosing a model with a built-in thermostat will further help for rooms which receive the least amount of airflow.

Inline Fans for Complicated Ductwork Layouts

Found most often in larger buildings, this problem is exactly as it sounds: The ducts are full of complicated bends and divisions which slow the flow of air from the furnace to the rooms. The further air has to travel, the less benefit your rooms will receive.

Inline booster fans may be installed at key points along the ductwork to help to keep air flowing at a higher speed. They help pull air past registers which previously vented out most of the hot or cool air into an adjoining room, allowing the air to flow further along the ducts.

Where Booster Fans Fail

Booster fans do what the name says – they boost airflow. Unfortunately, there are times when an underlying problem cannot be solved by simply adding a few fans.

In many cases, this comes down to the condition of your HVAC system, and adding a booster fan will have little or no effect until the underlying problem has been addressed.

Common HVAC Issues

Poor airflow is often a matter of improper maintenance and can be solved with little or no cost. One frequently overlooked reason is the air filter. Getting the wrong type of filter for your furnace or failing to replace it regularly can result in clogs that greatly reduce the efficiency of your furnace fans.

It is always a good idea to check the furnace filter once every few months and to keep at least one spare filter around for quicker replacement.

Another common issue found in older homes is peeling duct tape separation between sections of ductwork. In both cases, air is escaping from the ducts, reducing the overall pressure. A simple test with colored smoke will usually reveal leaks in the ducts, allowing for quick repairs.

Unfortunately, some leaks may require excavating a section of duct from a wall or ceiling in order to effect repairs.

Poor Air Returns

When your registers aren’t putting out a lot of air, it’s easy to forget about the air returns. These ducts pull air back out of a room and pipe it to the furnace. This is especially important on the upper floors of your home, where air must make its way down to your furnace’s location.

In many older homes, the air return system is inadequate for modern HVAC systems and may need to be expanded or even completely replaced.

Due to the fact that return air vents often lack fans or are situated in difficult to reach places, they are prone to debris buildup. Dust and dirt can slowly clog the system, as well as any objects which find their way inside.

Rodents, birds, and other pests have been known to build nests in these passageways, blocking the flow of air to your furnace and causing your furnace to work harder for a smaller result.

Regularly vacuuming the return vents and checking for debris will help keep them working smoothly and allow the entire ventilation system to work more effectively.

Your home’s heating system is one of your biggest energy users in winter, and it has a major impact on your comfort. If you’re in the market for a heating upgrade, it’s well worth considering all the options available before you choose.

Hydro-air systems, while still relatively uncommon, are gaining popularity for their flexibility and reliability. These systems combine two tried-and-true heating methods to give you the best of each.

How Hydro-Air Heating Works

A hydro-air system is part hydronic (water), and part forced air (ducted). Instead of using a flame in the air handler as a conventional furnace does, it heats air with hot water.

The heat for the system comes from a boiler that’s fueled by natural gas, oil or propane. The boiler heats water that’s then pumped through a tube to an air handler similar to the one found in a standard forced-air furnace.

The air handler contains a pump, hot water coil, blower fan and, in most systems, an air conditioning coil. As hot water heats up the heating coil, the blower fan sends cold air from your rooms over the hot coil. The air picks up heat from the coil, and the blower fan moves the air out into the duct system, which distributes it to your rooms.

The same boiler can be used to heat water for household use, such as in your shower and washing machine, so you won’t need a separate water heater. If you want air conditioning, an A/C cooling coil can be installed in the air handler to work in combination with an outdoor condenser unit.

It’s also possible to install a hydro-air system that uses a tankless water heater rather than a boiler, but these are less straightforward in design. Tankless water heaters require a minimum water flow to kick on, and they take time to heat up the water. That means you’ll need an additional storage tank to supply hot water when the tankless system doesn’t.

The Advantages of Heating with Hydro-Air

Hydro-air heating gives you the flexibility to heat every part of your home exactly the way you want with one dependable, space-saving, and energy-efficient system.

Flexibility and Zoning Options

With a hydro-air heating system, you have the option of mixing and matching heat emitters. You might have hydronic radiant flooring in the kitchen and bathroom, hydronic baseboard heaters or radiators in the living room, and forced-air heating throughout the rest of your house. You can even add little luxuries such as hydronic heated towel bars. Alternatively, you can stick with forced air alone.

You’ll also have an easy way to extend hydronic heating to a room addition, finished attic or basement, garage or pool. Extending your heating system this way saves space because you won’t need to run ducts along the ceiling or floors to reach other wings or stories of your house.

Zoning is easier with hydro-air, too. You can use a separate air-handler for each zone and, if you choose, different emitters in different parts of your home to precisely tailor the level and intensity of warmth in every room.

If you use the boiler for household hot water, you’ll free up space that would otherwise be occupied by a hot water heater.

Efficiency and Reliability

Hydro-air systems are as efficient or more efficient than conventional forced-air furnaces. If your home uses an older forced-air furnace and water heater, upgrading to a hydro-air system will let you replace both appliances with a single, high-efficiency system. That could make your upgrade eligible for rebates based on energy efficiency, in addition to cutting your energy bills.

For maximum efficiency, choose a modulating boiler. These boilers vary their energy use based on the amount of hot water you need at the moment.

When you have just one hot water tap on, the system will run at a lower setting. Turn on the shower, dishwasher or heating system, though, and the boiler steps up its output to meet your demand. Heating systems based on these boilers prioritize hot water for the taps and appliances, so you won’t have to worry about getting a cold shower when the heating kicks on.

If you’re interested in eco-friendly heating methods, but you don’t have the space or budget to install a geothermal system, a hydro-air system is a good alternative.

What to Keep in Mind

To run a hydro-air system, you’ll need a gas line large enough to supply your boiler, an electrical supply to power the boiler’s ignition and controls, and space to vent the boiler to the outdoors. For a condensing boiler, you’ll need either a floor drain or a condensate pump.

Installing a hydro-air system is most cost effective if you already have some type of boiler. Otherwise, a new forced air system will cost less than a new boiler plus a hydro-air air handler. If you’re building a new home, however, a hydro-air system with a conventional air conditioning system is likely to end up costing less than radiant flooring combined with a ductless A/C system.

These systems are ideal for small to mid-sized homes with efficient weatherization features such as tight air-sealing and sufficient insulation. In large, drafty homes, however, they can have difficulty providing enough warmth.

Although hydro-air heating systems haven’t gained widespread popularity yet, they’re a practical choice if you live in an energy-efficient home and want a heating system that’s both reliable and highly adaptable.

The warm, dancing glow of a fire can turn even the dullest room into a cozy retreat. When a traditional wood-burning fireplace isn’t an option, gel fuel, electric, and gas log fireplaces offer convenient, affordable alternatives. They provide not only ambiance, but also supplemental heating and an attractive focal point.

Gel Fuel Fireplaces: Simplicity and Gentle Warmth

A relative newcomer to the market, the gel fuel fireplace has quickly gained popularity as an easy-to-use alternative to a wood-burning fireplace. These fireplaces use commercially produced cans of isopropyl alcohol gel to fuel a flame.

To start a fire, open the can and remove the label, place the can behind the concrete log inside the fireplace, and light the fuel using a long match or a wand lighter. For a larger fire, you can use up to three fuel cans.

Because the fuel burns so cleanly without creating smoke, soot or ashes, the fireplace doesn’t need venting. Each can burns for around two to three hours and produces enough heat to bring a mild warmth to a small room. It can’t compare to the heat from a roaring wood fire, but it will take the chill out of the room. You can either let the fire burn down to the bottom of the can or put out the flame by sliding the lid back in place or using a snuff tool.

Pros

A gel fireplace’s flame is similar to the flame of a wood fire, with yellow, orange, and red tones and a soft crackling sound. To install the fireplace, just place it against a wall. The only maintenance it needs is an occasional light cleaning, which is less than what a wood-burning fireplace or even a gas fireplace requires.

Cons

You won’t be able to regulate the flame size as you would with a wood-burning, gas or electric model. If you put out the fire, the flame might not be as robust the next time you light the fuel can. While a gel fuel fireplace can give you mild supplemental heating, it can’t keep a room comfortably warm on a cold day.

The biggest downside is the potential safety risk. You’ll need to take care not to spill the fuel anywhere. Spills can cause the flame to spread outside the fireplace. Once a gel-fueled fire spreads, it’s difficult to put out by smothering or dousing with water. If you decide to install a gel fireplace, keep an ABC- or BC-rated fire extinguisher nearby.

Electric Fireplaces: A Realistic Look with Exceptional Safety

Today’s electric fireplaces can create remarkably realistic flames that give you all the warmth and ambiance of a wood fire without the hassle. These fireplaces draw in air, pass it over a heating coil, then gently push the warm air back into your room. Some also use infrared heating elements to provide radiant heat that directly warms people and furniture. Because they don’t burn fuel, they don’t need venting.

Electric fireplaces are available in a range of heating capacities, rated in Btus, and how much space they can heat adequately depends on their size. Smaller models that plug into a wall outlet are usually meant to heat rooms of between 400 to 500 sq. feet. More powerful models for larger spaces are available, but these typically need to be hardwired into the house’s electrical system by a professional.

Pros

Electric fireplaces offer variable flame control that lets you choose the size of fire you want. The heating coil and flame effect can be controlled separately so you can enjoy a romantic fire on a warm summer night without overheating your house. Some models produce a crackling sound, but for those that don’t, you can find accessories that will add the sound. Electric fireplaces are the safest option of all, with no risk of spilled fuel or gas leaks.

Cons

An electric fireplace won’t do you any good during a power outage. These fireplaces require a lot of power, so if you choose a plug-in model, be careful where you put it. Plug it into a circuit that’s already loaded with appliances and you’re likely to trip the breaker. They’re also not much more energy efficient than space heaters, so unless you enjoy high electric bills, it’s best to use the fireplace for supplemental heat over short periods.

Gas Log Fireplaces: Real Flames and Ample Heat

Gas log fireplaces offer a reasonably energy-efficient way to provide a room with warmth and an inviting glow. These fireplaces burn either natural gas or liquid propane. Natural gas models are hooked up to the house’s gas lines and require professional installation.

Most propane models are hooked up to your home’s existing propane tank, which you can do yourself if you’re familiar with the process of installing a new propane-fueled appliance. If your home doesn’t have a propane tank, you can have a small one installed outdoors specifically for the fireplace. Liquid propane burns hotter than natural gas, so you’ll enjoy more intense heat from your fire.

Both vented and ventless models are available. The safest choice is a direct-vent model, which draws in outdoor air to feed the fire and vents combustion gases and water vapor outdoors. If you’re replacing a wood-burning fireplace, you can vent your gas log fireplace through your existing chimney.

Ventless models are more energy efficient because they don’t lose heat through the chimney. On the downside, they leave combustion gases and moisture lingering in your home. Although generally considered safe, they’re still banned in some states.

These fireplaces use a pilot light, and when that’s on, you can start a fire with the flip of a switch.

Pros

The only maintenance you’ll need to do yourself is periodically taking the artificial logs outside and brushing them to remove soot. Besides this, the fireplace also requires an annual professional inspection. As with electric fireplaces, gas log fireplaces come in a range of heating capacities.

Overall, though, they can produce more heat than electric models. This makes them a better option for large rooms, but not so great for small rooms, which they can quickly overheat.

Cons

Although they burn clean and can put out intense heat, gas fireplaces don’t use fuel very efficiently. They’ll usually cost you more than a wood-burning fireplace or pellet stove for the same amount of heat. You won’t get that soothing crackle, either.

Enjoying a cozy fire doesn’t have to involve hassle and mess. A gas or electric fireplace can provide instant warmth and ambiance with little in the way of maintenance or cleanup needs.

A gel-fuel fireplace makes it even simpler to add a little extra heat to a room, although the need to replace the fuel cans frequently makes these models less convenient to use.